The German Cook

612 O'Farrell Street

Tel: 415-776-9022

I love this little gem that continues to survive in the chaos of the turbulent and sometimes virulent Tenderloin. I keep waiting for Joel Gray and Liza Minelli to appear from the restroom door breaking into the opening number from Cabaret. Everything about The German Cook is small and reminiscent of a time I've only experienced in the media, until you get to the food that the owner-chef and his waitress-wife so nonchalently serve. You'll be treated with great portions of terrific schnitzel, sausage, potato pancakes, breaded veal and pork, all with outstanding and authentic German side dishes like red cabbage and spatzel.

My biggest problem with this place is the inconsistency of the crowd, and as a result, the availability of the items I want to order on any given visit. But when I get what I want, I'm a truly happy camper. The food is honest and hearty the way I suppose average Germans actually eat it at home.

My favorites here are the schnitzel Holstein, a breaded veal cutlet pounded thin, served with an egg and anchovies, red cabbage and spatzel, the plate runneth over with soul satisfying, carbo-laden simple great tastes. The wife/server is a cross between a young Marlene Dietrich and Madonna, and she is always ready to step outside for a smoke; she oozes a husky voice charm and sophistication that invites speculation about her background and the true fate of Hitler youth. The prices hover around $8 to $10, the portions are huge, the quality high, service smooth and sensual like your server's voice. Beverages are limited and offer little excitement: some decent beers, a very weak wine selection, soft drinks served in the can, but all are very reasonable. The draw is the authentic quality of the food and the ironic, cabaret performance-like service of the sultry German Cook's wife. I recommend this place.

The German Cook is open for dinner only, reservations suggested but sometimes not taken.

Stu Smith

comments and suggestions to Stusmith97@aol.com

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