Sam's Grill and Seafood Restaurant

374 Bush Street (at Belden Lane)

Tel: 415-421-0594

This classic does not take reservations, the bar is miniscule, the maitre d' is insane and frightening, and the service can be brusque to the point of seeming rude.

Sam's is probably the best traditional seafood restaurant in this city. It's an institution and it is revered by generation after generation of this City's finest.

When entering and being greeted by either Gary Seput (current owner in the family owned one location empire), or John, the maitre d' (Gourmet called him insolent and arrogant beyond belief), prepare to belly up to the small bar and wait awhile with a great martini or manhattan. Request a booth along the side wall, and if you get lucky, that's where you'll be served some of the finest seafood available in San Francisco (where almost all the fish is imported these days).

The menu is vast and deserves careful perusal, because not all things are created equal here. Strangely, their veal chop is about the biggest and the best to be had around town, but you're probably here for the fish, so try the broiled swordfish, or a halibut tail if available. For fresh seafood and simple preparation, it doesn't get much better than this.Sam's is not cheap, in fact being ala carte, it can become very expensive, but it's worth it.

In your booth, ask the waiter to indulge your fantasy and request something not on the menu, chances are he will prepare it himself; Now that's service above and beyond the call of duty!

There are two waiters I always request, Frank or Giovani, both veterans of this venerable establishment for many years, who go beyond what is requested, and can impress anyone you might want to get favors from with their skill in and out of the kitchen. If either will make you their garlic bread, go for it, there's none better.

Soups are great, salads fair, side dishes can be excellent, try the hash brown potatoes or au gratin, both miles ahead of most other versions. Almost all the seafood is outstanding and well worth the prices they charge.

The place is simple, comfortable and feels like it's been here for centuries, actually it's the oldest seafood joint in town, since 1868, I believe. And don't be afraid to be as rude as the genial host John, he'll possibly even buy you a drink or dessert if you're clever in putting him in his place. I highly recommend Sam's. Enjoy.

Stu Smith

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