This is another creation or re-hash by restaurant 'Empressario' Sam Duvall, the same tireless guy responsible for Izzy's, The Elite Café, The Tumbleweed Café, The Great American Music Hall, Casablanca, The Front Room Pizza Parlors, Delmonico's in NYC, and a host of creative themed restaurant, saloons and entertainment concepts coast to coast.

That Sam is a genius is given, that he risks it all every time he gets another dream is harder to figure out. He has controlled this physical location on Van Ness off and on for two decades, giving time out to other entrepreneurs like Larry Mindel to try their hand at creating a money-making destination restaurant in the City. Sam first scored with Café Royale in this location, but after several years he had moved onto greener dreams and neglected it. He sold it, and took it back several years later, trying an innovative French brasserie/bistro which flourished for awhile, but didn't match his expectations. A couple of years ago Rocco's filtered out of his fertile imagination and became reality, and it's a tribute to both his vision and patience, not to mention his apparently deep pockets.

Rocco's reminds me of a combination of two of my favorite and most enduring operations in San Francisco; Sam's Grill and Original Joe's. The execution takes the best elements of both and makes it work. The atmosphere is reminiscent of Izzy's, walls covered with historic photos and memorabilia, a bustling center stage bar displaying handsomely the finest in premium wines, spirits and beers. The staff is clean, fresh and friendly, and knowledgeable about what is served at the restaurant. They also have been trained to time service to match the diner's schedule rather than that of the restaurant or its staff, and that's a pleasant surprise compared to so many 'hot' spots that treat customers like cattle going from the pen to the slaughterhouse.

On entering one is first impressed by both the 'booze' bar and the Oyster Bar, both rich and handsome featuring solid wood and brass details. The tables are well spaced offering a chance to carry on intimate conversations amidst a celebratory atmosphere. From the greeting at the host stand to the table one is treated like a patron and it works well here as one is nudged gently into 'joining the party.' Everything I have tried has been good, not stellar, but honest and good, with prices and portions to match that statement. From the changing roaster of fresh oysters to crab and prawn cocktails, mussels, clams, shrimp and calamari, the oyster bar offers an outstanding selection of fresh shellfish and it's treated and served with dignity and panache. Among my favorites on the menu are the roasted salmon in potato crust, the changing mixed grill and the cioppino, a large bowl brimming with crab, shrimp, mussels, clams, calamari and whole fish of the day in a tomato, vegetable and herb infused base, presented with unlimited amounts of garlic cheese bread and an old fashioned bib to avoid spillage. Like Sam's and Joe's, Rocco's is more than a seafood emporium, offering great cuts of meat and fowl. There's a solid offering of sides, salads and several respectable desserts with the house made key lime pie leading the way.

Prices are moderate to expensive with most entrées in the $15-18 range and include everything a complete dinner should offer. Oyster Bar and appetizer selections are $5-9 and worth the charge and desserts are all $5.50. Rocco's is a vibrant, fun and excellent choice for the diner seeking a San Francisco feel in a 'French Seafood Bistro.'

I highly recommend Rocco's.

Stu Smith

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