Perry's

1944 Union Street

Tel: 415-922-9022

The oldest 'swinging singles' joint in town, and it keeps going and going. I guess the reason it survives trends, super chefs and the superficiality that most ambitious pubs succumb to is the vision and execution of owner Perry Butler. Butler is a transplanted New York advertising guy who simply created what he loved best in the "Big Apple."

I've consistently had great drinks, food and service here for over 20 years. In this city that makes it an institution.

Perry's is a comfortable place with mostly round tables, bentwood chairs, old fashioned tile floors and lot's of non-descript wood covered with memorabilia celebrating the characters of the city from the late Charles McCabe, Herb Caen, Willie's May's and McCovey to legendary saloon keeper Morty Miller (now gone the way of neon cigars). The atmosphere is timeless in a postwar feel good way, and it invites people to sit and enjoy the simple well-prepared drinks and food free from the hassles that are outside the windows on Union Street, the fading Mecca of yuppie middle class wretchedness.

All the drinks are excellent and generous, good booze mixed with fresh juices, most served in a large wine glass, the bloody mary being shaken and strained with a touch of horseradish. They also have a good selection of beers and a wine list that's small but broad and fairly priced.

The food is really good, and not victim to herbal adulteration one expects to find in so many contemporary joints trying to find a niche with herbs, additives and Hunter S. Thompson flashbacks. The burger, Rueben and vegetarian sandwiches are right up there among the best to be had, as are the onion rings, fries and bread sticks served endlessly with small tubs of real butter. The Cobb salad, the Caesar and even the house salad are impeccably fresh and large, and the entrees cross over into classic American/European favorites and solid versions of multi-cultural dishes prepared with simple, robust style and elan.

Perry's also features brunch items all the time, and their "Eggs Blackstone" is the best I've ever had (Irish bacon instead of Canadian bacon).

The desserts are also excellent and appear to all be house-made.

Perry's offers a broad menu and is one of the few restaurants that delivers a great meal in everything they put on their menu. It's a place I love to hunker down for a long lunch, dinner or brunch, because everything is so inviting, relaxing, fun and good. The service is also among the best offered anywhere, especially in a 'Pub' type setting. I highly recommend Perry's, but can't speak for their second operation on Sutter Street, which is, I understand, a partnership with Kimco Hotels and Restaurants, the people who salvage concepts and rehash them endlessly and without commitment throughout our city.

Stu Smith

email suggestions and comments to Stusmith@aol.com

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