In the Provinces- The Outer Sunset
By Sarah Holm
In the first half of the last millennium, the Roman Empire stretched out into Gaul and Britannia, creating offspring of its culture mixed with the local customs, made rich blendings of religion, farming methods, architecture and cuisine that give the modern European nations their distinctive qualities today. To better maintain its foothold in northern Europe, Rome connected to its outlying districts by the straight stone roads that crossed the continent for centuries after the Empire had gone.
San Francisco has its own province as well: the Outer Sunset.
There is civilization past 19th Avenue and Irving. Having grown up in the Haight, surrounded by hippies in their Guatemalan shirts and the punks in black leather and torn fishnets, the Sunset always appeared in my mind as block upon suburban block of stucco flats, all painted in hideous shades of yellow. Now that I live here way, way out past the merchant corridor of Irving and the 20’s, or the one on Noriega that stretches to 32nd, I’ve found a small chunk of the civitas merged into ten blocks framed by Lincoln and La Playa, connected to the City by the N Judah.
Walking down Irving towards the water, between 41st and 42nd Avenues, Xiao’s Sushi House is a dream for fresh cheap sushi. To make the evening truly decadent, order multiple hand-rolled items for delivery. If you pass on Japanese, keep walking down Irving, patting the aged Shar-pei that hangs out in its family driveway on weekends.
Down towards 46th Avenue and Irving, Aikido In offers classes for adults six days a week in how to become a peaceful weekend warrior, and on Sunday mornings for children ages 8 and up. If you prefer pas de deux to joint manipulation, the Ming Hai Wu School of Ballet next door also offers multiple classes throughout the week. For those who exert themselves beyond the pale, the firehouse on 45th responds to more medical emergencies than fires.
Across the street is the Rivendell Elementary School, which is always closed when I walk by on weekends, but it looks like a fairly creative environment for little Sam or Moira. Fear not, you can always go public at Frances Scott Key Elementary on 43rd between Judah and Kirkham.
On the same block, Cajun Pacific offers up Po’boys, jalapeno cornbread, gumbo, and other terrific N’awlins goodies, with an emphasis for seafood. Order any catfish dish on the menu, and remember that there’s no corkage fee, so go on and bring the Dixie beer.
At 47th, head left towards Judah. Pittsburgh’s Pub is there to liquor up the masses. I can’t say I’ve ducked inside for a pint, but the green neon over the door spells out "Budweiser". Party on, O lightweight centurions! The cars on this block often display curious ailments, like the blue van that sprouted rust the orange color of wild mushroom spores, and the Econoline 150 that looks repaired with papier mache. So curve back up the hill towards the low 40’s. The area’s paean to chain stores sits on one big ugly corner of 46th and Judah. 7-11 and Launderland provide junk food and clean clothes everyday. Go get magazine and corndog during your spin cycle, sit on one for the folding tables and ignore the manager’s death threats- he’s used to being ignored. If you’re not into doughnuts and malt liquor, Golden Gate Pizza and Indian Food sits on Launderland’s other flank. Go for the Indian food, not the pizza, repeat, not the pizza.
Scattered along Judah at this point are a few shops: A video rental store, a thrift shop open only on afternoons and evenings, another Laundromat, this one offering free, terrible coffee, a youth outreach center. One huge storefront holds A Place on Judah, the Outer Sunset’s Internet café. Friendly and often disorganized, it’s perfect for the morning before a drinking fest, or the morning after. Just you, an omelet and some Smirnoff’s. Or if you’re feeling a little earthy and more in the mood for food that’s certified organic in two states, shop at Other Avenues, and pick up goat-milk brie, or heirloom tomatoes, or sulfite-free organic chardonnay. In business for 25 years, OA sells beauty products, books, house wares and gifts aside from its tasty food. Check out the glassware made by local artist Na’Kona.
As you head for the N stop on 43rd to return to your part of the City, look out over the beach. Here the music leaking out of the church on the corner as its auditorium fills with swing, ballroom, and occasionally square dancers. The fog will lift enough for you to see the sun go down.
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