Peter Osborne has brought the vibrancy and vitality of the ‘Washbag’ from North Beach to this SOMA parcel of land across the street from the new Pacbell Ballpark, a feat few restaurateurs could have pulled off with the style and virtuosity that Osborne and his designers, MBH Architects, have. The place looks related symbiotically to both the Washington Square and the Buchannan Grill, no small achievement given that each of these two was an inherited operation. MoMo’s feels to this writer like it’s been there a long time, and that it’s not several million dollars of ego on parade. It’s clublike, inviting, warm, simple and elegant at the same time. Entering, one confronts a large kiosk-like station where all guests are greeted and directed appropriately where they can obtain relief in either the gorgeous dining room or elegant and lush bar. Opened in late 1998 well before the ballots were recounted or the concrete was done being poured for the new ballpark soon to replace Candlestick Park as home to the San Francisco Giant’s, MoMo’s is the best new San Francisco restaurant and saloon of the ‘90’s for a host of non-food reasons. Throw in great food and what you have is a ‘grand slam’ only real San Franciscans can revel in. Peter Osborne is one of a handful of characters on the S F restaurant/bar scene to truly find the pulse of the public’s passion and lust for drinking and dining, and to refine, re-define and create three of the most public joints here in ‘Badgered by the Bay’ as the late Herb Caen called our fair City. Peter and partner Bill Jamieson first brought us the Buchannan Grill, the Marina’s only true American Bar & Grill; then came rescuing and re-creating The Washington Square Bar & Grill, the wildly successful creation of Ed and Mary Etta Moose and Sam Deitsch which had fallen on hard times when the founders ventured on to other pursuits. And now MoMo’s, Osborne's own journey ‘around the horn,’ gambling on the bonanza of the Soma Gold Rush.

To my taste, MoMo’s is the most satisfying of all the new joints popping up. Rather than a multi-million dollar testimonial, instead we encounter a solid, masculine and eminently comfortable restaurant and saloon so timeless that one can easily imagine bringing future generations of his or her lineage to this timeless and tasteful public house. MoMo’s is filled with rich textures, generous spaces, soothing lighting and sounds, colors and scents that cause a sense of relaxed anticipation and completeness at the same time. The only design drawback that I’ve observed is the barrier-like counter that one collides with upon entering the front door. It’s almost like boarding an airplane with two options for entering the flight cabin and not knowing which of the two doors is the one you want. To the right is the bar, and to the left is the dining room, and strangely, one can’t see either from the ‘boarding area.’ The Bar is large and filled with good vibes, and like any self-respecting saloon these days, offers an enormous selection of beers, wines and spirits. Like every room or space at MoMo’s, the scale is large, open and inviting. Door number two, or to the left is of course to the dining rooms, which are elegantly simple and richly spacious. This is one of the very few ‘new’ joints I would trust having a confidential conversation in because the table are not squeezed together to remind me how valuable the price per square foot the establishment is being gouged in rent. In addition to these two primary areas, there is a huge outdoor patio on either side of the entrance, and two private dining rooms, which are destinations themselves. The drinks served at the bar and in the dining areas are generous and fairly priced, with good barware, condiments and fresh juices abundant throughout. The selection of beers is more than adequate and the wine list is excellent with some offerings a little too pricey for me. The menus are extensive and ambitious but are receiving very good reviews by almost all that bother to critique the culinary scene. My two cents is that this menu is, like the place in general, ten notches above what anyone in the full service American Bar and Grill will ever achieve. MoMo’s is open for lunch M-S, brunch on Sunday and dinner seven nights at this time, and the menu offers something that will appeal or resonate for natives and tourists alike. It’s a Pandora’s Box that offers appetizers ranging from Onion Strings at 4.00, Risotto at 7.95, Seared Ahi with Bok Choy Slaw and Wasabi at 10.50 to a Chilled Seafood Tray of Oysters, Clams and Dungeness Crab at 20.00 for Big and 40.00 for Really Big.

I love the sense of style and confidence presented here. On to the salads which break no new ground, but are solid and sensational, and include the basic Mixed Baby Greens with a good Vinaigrette and Candied pecans at 6.50, a fabulous Chopped Salad with hazelnuts and Maytag Blue cheese at 7.95, a miraculous Marinated Baby Beet with Upland Cress and Horseradish Cream and MoMo’s Caesar, both at 7.95, and a ‘haunting’ Wood Roasted Chicken Salad with Walnuts, Roquefort and Pears at 9.95. The lunch menu includes 5 excellent sandwiches: Grilled Ahi with a pesto of green olives and roasted peppers at 10.50, BBQ Pulled Pork at 7.95, a good "Philly Cheesesteak’ with garlic fries at 7.95, a great burger served with cheddar, heavenly smoked onion relish and great fries, and a Black Forest Ham and Jarlsberg Sandwich, both at 8.95. There’s always a choice of brick oven Pizza’s ranging from 7.95 to 11.50 and excellent. Entrees include some almost perfectly prepared American Classics like a Hearty Lamb Stew, great Meatloaves, Chipolte Braised Shortribs, Dry Aged Steaks, Grilled Chops, pan fried, seared and oven roasted fresh seafood, simple and soul satisfying pasta’s, MoMo’s Brick Chicken, which is close to poultry perfection, crisp, tender, juicy and served with the perfect accompaniments of Asiago Potatoe Gratin and Shallot Jus at 15.95. Other unusual and very good offerings are the Maple Glazed Quail with wild rice and mouth watering cream corn at 14.95, and a Pan Seared Ostrich Filet with Tangerine Hoisin Glaze and Sesame Soba Noodles at 26.95, an inspired presentation. Most entrees range in price from 10.50 to 28.95 and are all excellent value. There are always at least 5 or 6 sides orders offered under 5.00.

They also offer some outstanding desserts that I first noticed when Peter Osborne created the Buchannan Grill. There is a selection of between six and eight offerings daily under the eye of artist Melissa Roberts, and the range is from sorbets, compotes, chocolate decadence and truffles to lighter than air couplings of pastry, custards and fruits and liquors. I strongly urge you to save room for these fantasy like creations. All this abundance is offered and delivered by truly well trained and interested servers. This is my favorite new restaurant and saloon, and I urge you to try it before the new ballpark opens next spring, because by then it will be impossible to get in.