Little Italy
4109 24th Street
Tel: 415-821-1515
Little Italy has been a Noe Valley anchor for more than 20 years, so when one of the rapidly-proliferating McPasta Pomodoro outlets popped up across the street, owner J.P. Gillen didn't bat an eyelash. In fact, the two eateries offer completely different dining experiences. While the newcomer offers a quick and inexpensive meal to people on their way somewhere else, Little Italy offers a full dinner and an immersive atmosphere that can easily take up an entire evening.
Walk into Little Italy and you'll see immediately that you're in for a more traditionalist approach. The waiters aren't twenty-nothing would-be actors with goatees and clunky shoes - they're full-time pros, more likely Italian than not. You are greeted by a real Maitre-D, not a hostess twinkie in disposable fashion. No Ikea furniture. No halogen lights. No graphic-designed menus. Instead you get a restaurant whose sincerity and traditionalism verge on kitchy: red-checkered tablecloths, basket-bottles of chianti, an open kitchen, and a menu copied faithfully from the famous Little Italy restaurant in New York.
The fare at Little Italy includes old-school staples that have been out for so long they're back in. Shrimp Cocktail, Stuffed Baked Clams, and Celery and Olives, among others, appear without a hint of self-consciousness. The Stuffed Artichoke is an excellent example of this throwback vein - covered in breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese, and olive oil, it is a heartwarming return to the appetizers of the seventies.
Main courses are predictably simple, ample, and reassuring. A short inspection was enough to identify the fundamental few rules that govern the entire menu.
Rule One: Avoid Adjectives.
Rule Two: One Pasta, One Sauce. (eg: "Linguini, Pesto")
Rule Three: Garlic.
Rule Four: Olive Oil.
Rule Five: Reasonable Prices.
Every dish we tried followed the rules, and was absolutely solid and satisfying. Around our large table there was no post-order regret or envy of others' choices. (Admittedly, there were also no flourishes and few high points, but the general satisfaction level impressed us all.) The Spaghetti, Prawns, Garlic, Oil and Anchovies were just that, with a mountain of prawns and spaghetti tossed in olive oil suffused with the taste of toasted garlic. Both the Carbonara and Marinara sauces would do an Italian grandmother proud, and the Spicy Sea Bass made us feel like we truly lived on the edge.
Finicky orderers might raise an eyebrow at the "No Half Orders" admonition, and the $2.50 charge for extra sauce seemed a little high - particularly for the Spaghetti with Butter Sauce. But in fact the staff was happy to make substitutions and even created a new dish for us. (Although, to be fair, the "Prawns, Any Style" is an invitation to this kind of thing.)
By the end of the meal we were stuffed, relaxed, and happy. We had other plans after dinner, but lingered instead over several more bottles of inexpensive chianti, strong coffee, and almond torte. It's just that kind of place
Reservations & Credit Cards
Entrees $8.00 - $15.00
Only two wines over $30.
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