Le Colonial
20 Cosmo Place
415-931-3600
| posthoc's Late Night Restaurant Guide |
Enthroned
where the once almost infallible Trader Vic's once dominated the social
scene of San Francisco, and doing what the legendary Vic Bergeron did
even better, Le Colonial is visually the most dramatic dining and drinking
establishment to grace the cityscape since the fire and quake of 1906.
The stately white facade in a tacky alley adjoining the Tenderloin offers
a hint that something special lies within the solid white double doors,
and upon entering one is transported to a tropical paradise that few of
us visit travelling anywhere in the remaining days of the 20th century.
One imagines Somerset Maugham advising a young Noel Coward to go freshen
up and join him for a Pimm's Cup in the lush tropical elegance of a colonial
plantation where Europeans made servants out of native populations who
saw hope in the power and majesty of crass dominion and territorial imperative.
In the open air breezeway people dine, savor luxurious cocktails, and
perhaps even enjoy a fine Cuban cigar regardless of the weather. The elegant
pan Asian materials and artifacts take the imagination on a physical trip
as surely as a plane or steamship to exotic destinations like Malaysia,
Singapore, Hong Kong or Bali--tropical places in paradise only the wealthiest
English aristocrats could afford.
I've visited Le Colonial outposts in Chicago and Los Angeles, and there's a sophisticated slickness common to each place this mini chain lays roots. San Francisco is notorious for drinking and dining emporiums that thrive on turning ill prepared diners into sophisticated and grossly overpriced restaurants based solely on a media contrivance that genuflects for celebrity chefs or restaurant designers. What one got with Trader Vic's was a real person named Vic Bergeron who had a fiery and feisty personality and who imposed his will on restaurant-goers able to accept his bold and brash end run into ‘cafe society.’ This copy of Le Colonial exists in whispers and offers quite good food and drink along with excellent jazz to augment the beautiful tropical Plantation House feel created by their astute design team.
There are several bars and dining rooms here, the most famous being the Cosmo Room and the Captain's Cabin. These relics from Trader Vic's and the bars and public rooms created by the current management make for a dream-like dining and drinking experience for all but the most jaded. Colliding with the elegant whitewash are lush potted palms and flowering plants, teak and rattan furniture, slatted deck wood ceilings, glass, textures, images and staff wearing black or dark green coolie jackets with Nehru collars and gold embroidered identification; these elements transport the smartly dressed patrons to the smug illusion of safety and sanctity all Colonial outposts gave their guardians. The staff appear to be authentic servers from the period of Empire and eagerly offer the ultimate in detailed service.
The food
here is French-Vietnamese and in almost all instances beautifully conceived
and executed and served in generous portions. Lunch and dinner are served
daily and much of both menus are different only in pricing between the
two times service is offered. Sup Mang Tay Cua at $4.50 is fresh 
dungeness
crab and white asparagus soup. Sup Bap Thit Ga at $4.00 is composed of
sweet corn and chicken broth spiced with cilantro and chili. Going into
the first course menu we find Cha Gio Chay at $6.50 which is crispy vegetarian
springrolls with blackear mushrooms, carrots, jicama and soy dipping sauce.
Suon Nuong Tuong Ngot at $9.50 is charbroiled pork spareribs with sweet
lime and chili marinade, and Goi Ca Thu is rare seared ahi tuna salad
with ground sesame seeds, onion and mizuna also at $9.50. Entrees include
the roasted Muscovy duck breast with vegetable ragout and orange ginger
glaze, Lau Hai San which is Vietnamese hot and sour seafood hot pot with
tiger prawns, half a Maine lobster, scallops, clams and mussels with shitakes,
shallots and herbs at market, Bo Pip Tet is a charbroiled angus beef strip
steak with fried potatoes and Asian BBQ sauce also at $28.00, and last
but not least is grilled BBQ Pork Loin with sweet Peruvian onion and apple
salad with crispy yam chips at $20.00. Rice and vegetables are next on
the Le Colonial menu and the offerings include sautéed string beans
with shitake mushrooms, peanuts and chili sauce at $4.50, steamy sticky
rice with peas, mushrooms, corn wrapped in banana leaf with coconut curry
sauce at $9.50 and fried rice with chicken, shrimp, egg, onion and chili
at $5.50. Desserts feature espresso pots de creme-almond frangipani cookies
at $6.50, roasted pineapple financier with coconut ice cream at $6.50,
chocolate mousse cake with mango sorbet at $7.00, a crispy banana springroll
with coconut tapioca at $5.00 and a classic crème brulée
at $6.00.
This recitation from the menu doesn't do the complexity and quality of the food justice, but all the things I have tried here have been excellent, and I have had at least a bite or two of everything on the menu. Le Colonial’s ingredients are the finest money can buy, and the kitchen is staffed with inspired and talented people who understand the fusion of French and Vietnamese Food and do it with skill and passion. Drinks are generous and made of fine ingredients and average $7.00. They feature an excellent wine list priced in much the same way Plumpjack Cafe prices their wines, so you can expect some great bargains. Service is professional, pampering and sincere, another return to a bygone era. I heartily recommend Le Colonial for superior food, drink, service and great ambience.
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