La Traviata
2854 Mission Street (at 24th)
Tel: 415-282-0500
OPERA,
OPERA, OPERA! La Traviata is a restaurant that generations of San Francisco
residents hold close to their vests without telling the rest of the world
us is a great traditional find andand it is a hush-hush favorite for good
reason.
Operated by the third generation of the same family, although this owner got here a bit circuitously, and with an evolving approach to change it, La Traviata remains committed to continuing the traditions lacking so quite blatantly in modern versions of classic Traittorias that are becoming so abundant here in SF these days. By the time you read this, La Traviata will probably be offering visitors its new menu, which will be a gesture of compromise to the younger folks who are somewhat leery of heavy sauced veal and gelatinous pastas that make ’sa two tined fork is useless in delivering its contents to a diner’s mouth.
La Traviata is on the ever busy Mission Street corridor, where cruising is an art form still done in lurching cars that emit toxic levels of ‘gangsta rap.’ One enters the restaurant’s front door into a genteel wood-paneled, photographic museum dedicated to the legends and legacies of the world of Operaopera, and it feels good. The soft music that bathes the dining room is all grand Operaopera, the mood and feel is Opera-opera, and the tuxedoed waiters serve with the casual authority of concertmasters on holiday. It’s almost old fashioned in a 50’s kind of way, but it’s also charming,and most importantly, the food is really quite good.
The current owner, John, is a talented chef in his own right and cooks the menu himself on Tuesday nights. He still manages to make frequent forays into the dining room in his dress whites and ask of each diner how the meal and service have been. He’s truly personable and knowledgeable about both food and music, and seems genuinely interested in each customer and what he might do to make La Traviata a better restaurant for everyone who comes there.
The menu is extensive and covers a lot of traditional territory like great Italian Places places always have. It’s dense reading, almost too much, and that makes it hard to choose what one is going to limit on3eself to enjoying.
There are only five appetizers, but they are quite good and include; : Mozzarella mozzarella in Carroza carroza @ at $4.75,; Prosciutto prosciutto and Melon melon @ at $5.25, ; calamari vinaigrette @ at $5.75 and Polpo polpo Vinaigrette vinaigrette (Baby baby Octopusoctopus) @ at $6.75; .
Soups Two soups are on the menu—the standard Minestrone minestrone @ at $3.00 and Pastina pastina in Brodo brodo @ at $2.75. ; Salads go from a basic Dinner dinner Salad salad @ at $3.50 to a Caesar @ at $6.00 with a great Antipasto antipasto Platter platter @ at $7.25.
The pastas are very good in the heavier traditional American Style style and include Alla alla Carrerascarreras-Proscuittoproscuitto, Sausagesausage, Mushroom mushroom and Tomatoes tomatoes @ at $9.75. The restaurant offers a fine rendition of; A fine Carbonaracarbonara-Pancettapancetta, Eggseggs, Cream cream and Butter butter @ at $9.50; and solid versionss of Pestopesto, Putanesca putanesca and Verdi verdi @ at $9.50.and a Tinta-a Rich Dark Sauce with Squid & Tomato Puree also @ 9.50.
There are four each of the Vealveal, Chicken chicken and Seafood seafood Entrees entrees that include the Marsalamarsala, Scallopiniscaloppini, Al al Fornoforno, Piccata piccata and Ai ai Ferri ferri presentations ranging in price from $11.50 to 16.00, all very reasonable and very good. These entrees are served with excellent fresh vegetables and delicious housemade Tortellinitortellini.
The best buys can be had on the ‘Specialties of the House’ section of the vast menu and following are a few of my favorites: animelle alla scotto (sweetbreads sautéed with tomatoes, mushrooms & onions) at $12.95, eggplant parmigiana at $9.00, linguine with baby clams at $10.00 and wonderful gnocchi (home made potato dumplings) in tomato sauce also at $10.00.
As if this wasn’t enough, there are also at least eight specials tucked into the massive menu and they included on my most recent visit some of the best bruschetta I’ve ever tasted--superb with a rich and garlicky tomato sauce, laced with peppers, onions, olives and garlic at $3.95. This alone was worth the cost of the whole dinner, truly outstanding.
Two other specials must be told of and they are the melanzane imbotitte (grilled eggplant filled with mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, basil and balsamic vinegar) at $5.50 and the salmone al cartoccio (fresh salmon baked in parchment with tomatoes, olives, pesto, garlic and wine) at $16.50. Both were outstanding.
From the opera memorabilia covering the walls to the vaulted ceilings, the white napped tables and latticed dividers, there is an abundant and earthy elegance that demands adoration and respect from the guests. It is an ongoing statement of love and gratitude for the opportunity to share the bounty of Italy with the home this family found in San Francisco’s rich and diverse Mission District. I highly recommend La Traviata and hope you’ll tell John you read about him in posthoc.
Reproduction of material from posthoc is prohibited without written permission.
Copyright 2002, Posthoc, Inc.