The Grubsake

1525 Pine Street

Tel: 415-673-8268

This restaurant has been around for over three decades, and it gained its infamy in the heyday of Polkstrasse before the Castro became queen of the gay subculture here in Oz. Located on Pine Street just around the corner from Polk Street in a marriage of an old railroad caboose and a simple, plain room adjoining, the Grubstake is a cheery, friendly place serving a good breakfast, some very good burgers, sandwiches and a smattering of fair priced, generous portioned simple entrees.

The caboose section consists of a counter and a small dining room while the larger room is filled with mural-type renditions of scenes from places near and far, each holding bittersweet memories for the truly diverse clientele that frequent this place. Hours seem contrary, but in no way do they keep the throngs of people from every walk of life from flocking here from 4:00PM until 2:00AM daily and from 10:00AM until 2:00AM on weekends. The Grubstake even has a small patio facing Pine Street which offers a squinter's eye view of the windows of the nearby high-rise Holiday Inn. The view is of little more but it's comfortable and a refuge for the smokers who jam into every square inch of that playpen size area.

Of the specials, I'm fondest of simple preparations of stuffed pork chops, good prime lamb chops, fresh salmon steak and a few things like old fashioned beef stew. Each are served with a choice of starch and a great fresh medley of cooked-to-order vegetables. The staff are friendly and irreverent; they seem not to want to bite the hand that feeds them to the point of losing patronage. They will bend over to allow substitutions, use skim milk in mashed potatoes, overcook veggies and a host of other personal demands seldom granted these days to DWBA (Diners with Bad Attitude). The eatery's claim to fame remains a really good burger grilled to order, bun toasted, served with fresh lettuce, tomato and red onion for around $5.00, add $1.00 for a generous order of house cut french fries, and it's a substantial, high quality hamburger. Condiments are in squeeze bottles, kind of fun but messy, and given the size and layout of the cramped space it always feels like you're knocking elbows with the folks next to you.

The crowd is made up of everything from tired drag queens from nearby Kimo's, girl and boy hustlers counting their take, yuppies, skinheads, fixed eye and income seniors guarding their space, street crazies and a bunch of alcoholics in recovery before and after their meetings acting like drunks without drink. It's fun, high energy, colorful, buzzing and relaxing all at the same time. The desserts are rather pedestrian, the service is sincere to a fault, the coffee is better than average and refills are endless and free. I truly like this Polk Gulch neighborhood diner and recommend it highly.

Stu Smith

Reproduction of material from posthoc is prohibited without written permission.

Copyright 2004, Posthoc, Inc.