Gold Coast

230 California Street

Tel: 415-989-6939

Gold Coast is the invention of Jimmy Brandt, a transplant like Perry Butler from New York, who has a vision and the temperment to create a classic, timeless and " feel good" saloon that serves great grub.

It's right next door to the venerable Tadich Grill and just two doors from Aqua, the celebrated and pricey seafood emporium becoming a chain. Gold Coast is unlike Aqua in its honesty and success in providing a complete entertainment experience for the diner seeking connection with the food and drink served.

You enter from bustling California Street into a long narrow bar area with high ceilings, tons of rich, dark woods, covered with period photos, artwork and memorabilia. It's casual and comfortable, upscale and a dive all at the same time, but the people draped around the bar are happy and animated sipping on a wide variety of beers on tap and wines by the glass, all about a third less in price than at Aqua.

From the bar you see a section of the restaurant with private booths, and a back dining room again smothered with historic and amusing memorabilia from San Francisco's shadier past: lot's of full-bodied nudes that one never sees anymore in these times of political correctness. They have even installed a separate ventilated smoking area with its own bar on the second floor called the "Rod and Gun Club."Gold Coast is like a musuem in some respects, it draws you to search every nook and cranny, not knowing what you'll find, but grateful for the experience.

Jimmy Brandt is a chef, and he brings that talent, insight and creativity to all the food served here, with the exception of desserts, which are almost totally neglected for some reason that's probably more laziness than oversight. It's simple, bountiful and savory fare here, with daily 'blue plate' specials representing the cultural diversity we are part of in this city. From 'Mighty Mo's' meatloaf and mashers, 'Crescent City' gumbo to classic variations of chicken cordon bleu, these specials cry out for your attention, and are almost always sold out early.

The burger is a classic, soups and salads could use a crutch sometimes, and the desserts left by ambulance a while back, but the overall experience is rich and rewarding. Stick to the things they boast about and you can't go wrong.

Service is friendly and efficient, the 'blue plates' and drinks excellent, and the atmosphere exciting. They also serve dinner, and feature some great deals. Prices are reasonable. I highly recommend the Gold Coast.

Stu Smith

comments and suggestions to Stusmith97@aol.com

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