florio
1915 fillmore street
Tel: 415-775-4300
I’ve held off for a nanosecond reviewing this new offering from Doug Biederbeck and Joseph Graham and known intuitively that it would be a rock solid hit because of partner Doug Biederbeck. I have a short list of the most significant restaurant virtuosos hereabouts in the latter half of the 20th century and in alphabetical order my list is Biederbeck, Sam Du Vall, Peter Osborne and Ed Moose. When I hear that any of these gentlemen is opening a new restaurant or saloon, I become excited and impatient to see, touch and experience for myself what they have wrought, for I believe each is a visionary master of making real the dreams that lie fallow within the audience for new experiences in the art of dining and imbibing in our cool, Grey City. The moment the paint started appearing on the exterior of this work in progress, I knew it was going to be ‘right.’ The rich mocha brown and burnt orange enamel is mesmerizing and absolutely perfect for the location. The scale feels just perfect as you enter the small and intimate brasserie, everything feels warm, inviting and designed to maximize the pleasure of each guest. Colors, lighting, textures, simple and elegant touches from the paper the simple menus are printed on to the crispness of the napery feels spot on.
My first visit to Bix was also the first time I encountered Doug Biederbeck, and I was truly impressed with both institutions from that first moment ‘til today. Doug instills confident serenity and authority without arrogance or false pride, and those values carry over into the staff wherever he is in charge. Florio shows this heaven sent skill again, the staff is truly well trained and confident, making each guest feel valued and unique, as well as responsible for making the choices that will ensure the success of their visit to Florio. That is really an art. Visually, emotionally and service-wise, Florio is a smash. This writer finds that the food has not quite achieved the mantle it will soon rest comfortably and consistently upon, so I’m going to share the things I like most at this time, and update this review as we both evolve and grow into a serenity that comes only with time and the balance of settling into the new home of a sure to be ‘long run.’
The menu is simple and very well thought out like almost all the details one finds here. A simple bar/café style piece of creamy, buff colored stock, with readable type lists four appetizers and hors d’oeurves that include my favorite; an assortment of marinated olives and almonds for 3.50 which goes perfectly with everything the bar serves. Sharing this short list is an outstanding and simple garden radish selection with sweet butter and sea salt (brilliant), a gruyere crostini with baby cress, both at 4.00, and grilled fennel bruschetta on country bread at 5.00. Following that short list is a much longer and more complicated listing of first courses leading off with a charcuterie plate at 9.00 per person, an excellent lobster bisque at 8.00, pastini in brodo at 6.00, vegetable antipasto at 7.50, a garden lettuce salad with sherry shallot vinaigrette at 6.00, a warm shrimp and white bean salad with arugula and olive oil at 11.00, smoked salmon with celery root remoulade at 11.00, steamed mussels mariniere at 9.00, chanterelle mushrooms with soft polenta at 7.00, a sensational onion tart at only 6.00 and a marvelous cheese selection at 8.00 per person. The entrée selections on the menu are augmented by some intriguing and very good daily specials, which I have yet to try, but most surely will as I get to know Florio better. I’m very pleased with each of the four entrées I’ve tried so far, and the nibbles I’ve had of the other offerings. My favorite selection to date is a toss up between the hachis parmentier (shepherd’s pie) at 13.00 and the sole meuiere with spinach and lemon at 14.00. The steak frites with red wine butter at 18.00 for one and 35.00 for two is excellent, and the roast chicken with potatoes florio at 14 for one, and 27.00 for two is equally well prepared and I welcome the idea of offering both these items for two. Other terrific selections are Mediterranean fish stew with spicy rouille and grilled country bread at 16.00, duck confit with lentils at 14.00, three pasta offerings with the fusilli with braised oxtail and arugula at 14.00 proving the stellar potential of this kitchen under the direction of David Shawn. There is a small selection of side dishes that warrant your attention, and I highly recommend each of them, especially the potatoes florio at 3.00, the warm spinach with lemon and oil at 4.00 and the delicious artichoke and cardoon vegetable gratin at only 4.00 which I find almost addictive.
There have been four very good dessert offerings each visit and I’ve tasted each and find the chocolate cake and apple tart with crème fraiche to be sensational. They also offer some fantastic house made sorbets at 5.00. All other desserts are 6.00. Coffee is excellent, as I believe you will find almost everything offered so competently and warmly at this wonderful new institution that Doug Biederbeck et al have graced our City with. I highly recommend Florio.
Stu Smith
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