Eric's
1500 Church Street (at 27th)
Tel: 415-282-0919
Residents of Noe Valley have submitted willingly to the pull of Eric's, not even trying to resist the straightforward appeal of what is arguably the city's best Chinese food. In fact, the restaurant acts as a kind of fly-paper of the neighborhood, attracting a cross-section that includes the post-collegiate JCrew set, young couples with well-appointed kids, trendsters in black and gray, and even - on a recent Monday night - a pack of effeminate leather-clad bikers. On any given evening you'll see all them milling around the entrance, salivating expectantly in the glow of Eric's green neon sign.
Despite the crowd, quick service and fast preparation keeps the wait tolerable (not to mention the fact that most diners know what they want even before sitting down). Soon enough you will be pointed to a table of your own in Eric's single dining room. It is a spare white space, accented by a scattering of Chinese knickknacks, hangings, and plants - a tasteful, unobtrusive décor that knows better than to compete with the food for your attention.
The key to Eric's consistent success is its willingness to accept its place in the culinary food chain, and then to provide the best possible food in that category. So if you're looking for inspired pan-Asian-Creole-fusion haute-Chinoise delectables, just keep walking. Eric's menu is free of superfluous adjectives, nothing is free-range or herb-crusted, and they're not telling what farm produced the asparagus - even if they know. Instead, they serve excellent Chinese food - full portions of Hunan and Mandarin fare, superbly prepared and efficiently presented.
Order appetizers at Eric's with confidence; you won't regret choosing any of them. Fried Crab Rangoons have developed a cultish following - at least among my crowd, where the little fried wontons filled with cream cheese, crab, and scallion are highly prized delicacies. I'm still skeptical that they serve these in China, or Rangoon for that matter, but if they don't, they should. Sticking to the basics, we ordered excellent Potstickers and Hot & Sour soup, opting to let the anticipation for Drums of Heaven and Ocean Party Soup build until the next visit.
Entrees at Eric's start with familiar dishes like Broccoli Beef and Lemon Chicken, often with an unexpected twist or extra ingredient. These additions provide an elegant, if modest, upgrade from the standard edition, without re-interpreting, overpowering, or transforming beyond recognition. The effect is welcome: excellent food, with a certain panache to keep it lively.
Such is the case with Eric's famous Mango Prawns, a generous plate of healthy-sized prawns served in a spicy brown sauce with hot peppers and - you guessed it - mangos. The dish would be great even without the twist, but the mangos add body and provide a sweetness that complements the heat. Shanghai Chicken also demonstrates the Eric's flair, with a tasty mix of pine nuts and a totally unexpected mountain of crunchy seaweed that adds texture, color, and taste without stealing the show. The Scallops in Szechwan Sauce was the least auspicious offering (although they would top the list in many Chinese restaurants), noticeable for their mushy texture and unfavorable broccoli-to-scallop ratio. Not to be missed: Moo-Shoo of your choice, wrapped at your table with a dexterous "3 Spoons" method; crunchy Sesame Beef; and the Hoisin String Beans, which are a true Eric's staple.
Other notes: Entrees $5.50 to $8.95. No delivery. No MSG. Credit cards. Lunch Specials. Beer, Wine, & Saki. Pickup orders are prepared in 15 minutes, and you can park in front of the fire hydrant for the dash inside.
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