the elite cafe
2049 fillmore street
Tel: 415-346-8668
The Elite Cafe was reborn in 1981 by gastronomic maestro Sam Duvall, and as is his want, a new era of dining became the ‘rage’, and thrives to this day, untouched. The Elite had been in existence since 1928, and Sam had a vision of Cajun food served in a pre-depression style New Orleans Cafe by tall men clad in black and white plying southern hospitality in a contemporized yet authentic manner and setting. Sam is kind of a cross between Frank Lloyd Wright and Tennessee Williams: droll, quick, a biting wit with a slow, urbane delivery. He has the gift of seeing new possibilities in old settings, and has delivered some of San Francisco’s most memorable dining, drinking and entertainment joints including Cafe Royale, Izzy’s, The Great American Music Hall, Harlow’s, Delmonico’s, The Sugar Shack and a host of vivid contemporary dining destinations unequalled in their diversity and excellence.
The Elite is a handsome part of the hip and urbane upper Fillmore district with a handsome mustard yellow and Kelly green exterior that subtly beckons passerby to its open window frontage. Sam’s partner in the Elite, Tom Clendenning bought Sam out around 15 years ago, and has put the same loving care and attention that Sam poured into this landmark.
Entering the facility from either of two timeless doors one runs smack into a world class oyster/raw bar that separates the entryways. To the left is a light and elegant bar that offers dining if there’s ever a free space. The Elite is almost always crowded and has been for the nearly 20 years of it existence, largely because everything that is done here is still done with consistent care, fair pricing and the finest of ingredients. With service a notch or two above most of its neighbors in this upscale neighborhood. Between the bar and the opposing wall is a square dining room that can feel cramped and isn’t conducive to the art of conversation, but is exciting and fun with the din of a lot of people enjoying the dining experience they’re part of. On the right wall are a series of light wood booths, the coveted seats available here at the Elite, but with the bubbling energy and terrific service the time passes quickly and soon enough you’ll be on your way back into the yuppie feeling street. The food at the Elite is a blend of Cajun~Creole that DuVall remembered from his southern childhood and decided to bless us west coast slackers before anyone here had ever heard of it. The Elite was an instant success with dishes like Jambalaya and Etouffee becoming part of our gastronomic language and the art of ‘blackened’ meats and fish assuming pedestrian status amongst foodies.
The selection offered at the Oyster Bar is as fresh and prime as any to be found in northern California, and in addition to the fresh oysters on the half shell, shrimp, crab and mussels one will be tempted by such savories as Fried Catfish Fingers at 6.50, Cajun Popcorn at 8.50 (outstanding), some excellent fried Calamari at 7.50 and one of the best remoulades to be found anywhere. Appetizers include great versions of Crawfish Pie at 9.50 and Crab Cakes with Cucumber, Tomato-Herb Salad & that terrific Remoulade at 10.50. Soups are a must here with an outstanding Classic Turtle Soup laced with Sherry at 6.50, superior Seafood Chowder and a very good ‘File’ Gumbo at 5.75. They offer a solid Caesar Salad at 7.50, a good basic organic green salad with Glazed Pecan & Balsamic Vinaigrette at 6.25 and a sumptuous Beet Salad with Baby Artichokes, Watercress and Bleu Cheese at 8.00. Entrees range from Granddad’s Chicken & Dumplings at 12.50, Blackened Pork, Beef Filet & Fish at 15.00 – 24.00, Baby Back Ribs with Black-eyed Peas & Cornbread at 18.75, Grilled Salmon at 16.50 to the fantastic Creole Jambalaya with Andouille Sausage, Chicken & Shrimp at 15.75 (A Steal) and the sublime Shrimp & Crab Etouffee at 16.00.
Every dish and presentation I have had at the Elite has been superior and I always save room for desserts, which are treated with as much respect as every other offering at this memorable establishment. Their Bread Pudding with Whiskey Caramel Sauce is heavenly at 5.95, the Crisp (Apple this time) with Praline Ice Cream at 6.50 is almost immoral, but pales compared to the Southern Sundae with the Praline Ice Cream and Hot Fudge Sauce. They offer a great Cheese Plate at 8.50, Ciao Bella Sorbets at 5.50 two classic Crème Brulee’s also at 5.50 and a Tart and Cheesecake both at 6.50. All the desserts are outstanding and worthy of praise. The Elite serves Sunday Brunch and is a true destination for that meal featuring such stuff as one of the best Beef Hash offerings I’ve ever had with poached eggs at 9.95, eggs New Orleans (crab with poached eggs & bernaise sauce) at 9.50 and great sausage, bacon, omelette and special egg dishes with great beignets.
The Elite offers a full bar with a great selection of everything, a tremendous selection of good wines by the glass at fair mark ups, some good beers and a wonderful atmosphere to enjoy food we’re used to having only when we travel, and here it seems better than I remember it when I am traveling.
The only negative things I can say about the Elite are that it sometimes feels too busy to really enjoy the high quality of food and service that elevate this fine dining landmark from others competing for the dining dollar here in Oz. I highly recommend the Elite Café.
Stu Smith
Reproduction of material from posthoc is prohibited without written permission.
Copyright 2002, Posthoc, Inc.