Dame

1815 Market Street

Tel: 415.255.8818

I've read and heard many things about Dame for a long time, and never felt compelled to actually determine what all the hoopla was about. One of the reasons being that I keep associating it with a dubious title bestowed by readers of the Guardian as "Most Romantic Gay" restaurant in the City, nomenclature that inspires boomerang physical reactions in me. Those appellations spell instant distrust, and succeeded in keeping me wary and unwilling to heed the recommendations of some 'foodie groupers' I actually do trust. Until recently, that is. A close friend chose Dame to celebrate his 5th anniversary of 'walking the talk.'

He made reservations for the five of us well before the customary gay romantics choose to dine, and we got a large, comfortable table in the center of the simple, whimsical oblong room that boasts little more than washed burnt orange paint, large framed photographic prints, a soothing blend of white linen and brown butcher paper and simple flower arrangements at each table. The room seats about 50 diners, has no bar, feels almost like a southern parlor and is soulfully relaxing. It takes confidence to make a statement so simple and unstructured as the owners have here, and as the evening progressed it became clear that confidence was earned and deserved.

Upon being seated, our server offered two plates of housemade foccacia with a delicious garlic/garbonzo spread and large glasses of iced water. Menus were presented along with a reasonable priced and well thought out wine list. Simple, intriguing and compelling choices became my dilemma, but our party agreed to sample and share, grazing like the yuppies we might have been….The sweet onion, pancetta and gorgonzola soup at $5.50 was outstanding, a great lead off item, followed by a remarkable crab risotto with white truffle oil at $7.00 which is sensational. Only one of us had the courage to order the gorgonzola french fries at $6.50, and it was a near perfect mountain of right sized, crisp and hot russets smothered in a cascading flow of smooth lava-like gorgonzola. Prince Edward Island mussels in a red pepper broth at $6.50 were aromatic and again a very large portion done to a 'T.' We didn't choose either of the salads, and aurugula, beet and sweet onion with asiago cheese tossed in red wine vinaigrette at $6.00, nor the spinach with house dried tomatoes and marinated mushrooms in a balsamic vinaigrette also at $6.00, nor the braised lamb riblettes in a sesame-balsamic glaze at $7.50.

The balance and breadth of just the starter menu awe me, and the quality inspired confidence in what was to come. I selected a roasted half range fed chicken in rosemary pan gravy with parmesan mashed potatoes and a fabulous medley of fresh vegetables at $13.50, and each component on my plate would have fetched double that price and been praised at more 'talked about' restaurants. Two in our party opted for the special salmon encrusted in hash browned potatoes with a great polenta and the amazing vegetable medley at $14.50, another chose the American beef stew with winter vegetables and garlic mashed potatoes at $13.50 and raved with every bite, and the last order was a request to owner-chef Jim Dame for an entrée of the starter crab risotto, and after a quick huddle audible to our party, we learned a later diner would most likely not have the risotto as a choice for a starter. Our party reluctantly passed on several entrées with great appeal including polenta crusted catfish with sesame vegetable slaw, cheese fritters and lemon-red pepper aiolis at $13.50; Penne in fresh lemon-tomato sauce with turkey sausage and basil at $12.50; Hickory smoked pork loin atop gorgonzola polenta with garlic marinated tomatoes and onions at $14.50; Prawns sautéed with cracked pepper and garlic, served with lemon cous cous, roasted tomatoes and arugula also at $14.50 or the sole vegetarian entrée; Polenta triangles with grilled summer vegetables in a roasted red pepper sauce at $12.50. In addition to the starter and entrees listed, there are six 'extras' on the menu, all at $3.50 and variations of the accompaniments to most of the entrees. Seductive, enticing and compelling are the feelings this menu brings out in me, and it would appear in many of my fellow diners.

But before I take leave of sharing my experience at Dame with you, let me relate our dessert adventure which was the perfect 'grand finale' to a terrific dinner out: Three items were offered, varying widely in their appeal, and we decided to continue in the spirit of our earlier decision with starters to order one of each dessert and five clean forks and indulge ourselves. A large and picture perfect crème brulee, a cranberry, nectarine, peach crumble tart with eggnog ice cream and last but not least, a breathtaking plate of chocolate bread pudding swimming in chocolate sauce, covered in whipped cream and candied nuts took our breath away. All house made that day and priced at $6.00, they show the complete mastery that Jim Dame possesses. Every item we tasted was equal or better than I've had at double the prices presented at dame that abound in more publicized celebrity chef joints on the current hot list the 'groupies' are coagulating in these days. Dame also serves Sunday brunch and I can hardly wait to try that offering of this immensely talented maestro of the grill. I offer my highest recommendation to all readers to try Dame at your earliest possible convenience, to do otherwise is to deny yourself some of the best cooking to be found in San Francisco.

Stu Smith

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