Couscous Royal
2433 Stattuck Ave.
Berkeley
510.843.923
Last time I was in Paris, North African couscous restaurants were still all the rage. The Tex-Mex craze (imagine $10-15 for a substandard burrito) was just beginning (what’s the craze now, Chinese?). Anyway, the couscous places were prolific and delicious, and reasonably priced. I remember several fine hearty meals at places around town; my favorite was a place around a corner or two from the Musee du Cluny.
Couscous Royal in Berkeley has been open five years. I hadn’t been until late last year, and what a find! I’m a true boaster of Bay Area bests, but honestly, Couscous Royal knocks the pants of all those places in Paris.
Popular with large groups, it can also be a cozy, romantic place, especially if you get a spot on the floor cushions that line one wall. The staff is friendly and helpful, and might even persuade you to hang out until you’re ready to eat again.
The Moroccan mint tea is essential with any meal. Served hot in tiny glasses, this refreshingly sweet drink complements the flavors better than anything on the wine list does. Most of the menu is meat-centered, but veggie-heads like myself will be pleased to find several choices worth a special trip. The large-portioned Algerian lentil soup sounds ordinary, but is some of the best I’ve had. Starters zaalook (eggplants, tomatoes, herb
& spices), carrot charmoulah, and roasted bellpepper salad are all excellent. They can be ordered together as "Si Adda," the veggie-combo appetizer. Served room temperature, they are delicately spiced and have a smooth oily texture without being greasy. Delicious, fresh wheat bread is provided to scoop it up.
The vegetarian couscous entree (the least expensive at $7.50) is a hearty stew with carrots, potatoes, chick peas, other veggies and tons of yummy stew juice to sop up with the couscous and bread. I recommend the harissa hot sauce on the side. Other entrees include prawn, chicken, lamb, beef, and are probably really good too. The saffa (couscous with powdered sugar and cinnamon) is an entree but can work as a dessert if you still have room.
Couscous Royal makes a great stop before a film at the near-by Fine Arts Cinema, and is within eyeshot of the Berkeley BART stop. Go to Couscous Royal for North African couscous that’ll knock your pants off. Couscous Royal, 2433 Stattuck Ave., Berkeley. 510.843.9236.
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