Anjou

44 Campton Place

Tel: 415-392-5373

My good buddy and host for the lunch I’m about to review gave me the choice of Rumpus, Scala or Anjou, with his favorite winding up as my reluctant choice because he truly can talk the chrome off a trailer hitch trying to get his way when he wants it. I tend to view French restaurants with disdain only because it’s my impression that Gallic Gastronomy is myth babelized beyond recognition. My buddy and host for this adventure in surliness and arrogance is either oblivious to what goes on around him or has gone mad.

Behind the Campton Place Hotel

We entered the simple yet cluttered entryway behind Campton Place Hotel and were between a private yacht sized ‘bar’ and ‘galley,’ with a narrow two-tiered dining room in front of us. The waiter who greeted us recognized the guy who was gonna pick up the check, asked if he had a reservation, and ‘got lost’ for about 10 minutes while we clumsily stood in the middle of all the kitchen and bar traffic waiting for his return and permission to dine here. Amazing to me was the fact that from where we stood, he could go nowhere and be more than 20 feet away from where we stood, so he was always visible to us as he alternately ignored and gestured at us before finally turning our sad case over to a hostess who appeared from nowhere, and although Asian, possessed that same gallic haughtiness that successfully enslaves so many American ‘Bordeaux fanciers.’ She hastened us to the only table vacant, and suggested to another waiter that he serve us rather than the klutz who had already alienated me.

The menu is clever and reasonable, and offers some sensible choices for lunchtime fare in the downtown Union Square area for those on a short lunch hour. Anjou features what they call a ‘Lunch Express Menu’ with all items at 12.50 and served with a choice of soup or salad. The days choices numbered nine and included Ragout of Mussels, Sautéed Scallops, Three Mushroom Ravioli, Toasted Brioche of Duck Foie Gras, Grilled Wild Sturgeon, Quiche and a Grilled Tuna Sandwich with Pommes Frites. The soup was fresh artichoke bisque, which I ordered with the Grilled Tuna Sandwich, and I enjoyed a very small and pleasant lunch, but would almost surely never search out the restaurant again. In addition to what I describe above, they offer an à la carte menu with the de riguer French Onion Soup Gratinee, several salads and appetizers and the ever present classic escargot in the 5.50 to 8.50 range. In addition to the days specials there were seven additional entrees to choose from ranging from 14.00 to 18.00. and from what I observed everything served in this restaurant is offered in quite small portions.

I guess it’s really a rustic bistro type menu, but at the prices and with such small portions, I was not impressed. The food was quite nice, and the service was correct, but it is not a warm and inviting place to dine. It was suggested that I compare it to Le Central, where for years I have enjoyed many fine and robust meals, served in a bustling and upbeat atmosphere that demands one return time and time again. I wish I had something really great to say about Anjou, but I can’t find it within me to recommend this place without a lot of reservations in the figurative sense.

The Tarte Tatin was actually very good, but even asking the owner to heat it thoroughly produced only a luke warm dessert at best, and the accompanying cinnamon whipped cream just didn’t work for this diner. The food is good, the quality excellent, the premises are clean and well maintained, the service is stiff and haughty, and the portions are small and the prices are high. For several dollars more the same basic menu is offered at dinner. I think Anjou might be an acquired taste, and highly recommend it only to the diehard Françophile.

Stu Smith

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